Something Good is Cookin' at Kitchen

As you know, I get excited about a new restaurant the way that normal people do about a new puppy or a trip to Cancun. What can I say, eating is my passion. And while some may disagree, I think it is a noble pursuit. After all, I am like a medieval food tester. I save you the trouble of eating dreck and instead point you to the good stuff.

I happened to spot a mention in our local rag, The Raleigh News & Observer, about the opening of Kitchen in Chapel Hill. As I scanned the blurb I saw that it was located in Midtown Market, a mere stone's throw from my door. I quickly did an online cross-reference of my favorite foodies and discovered that Kitchen is a new bistro in town. It may be the only bistro. And as it turns out, that's alright with me.

After perusing the menu online, a few things intrigued me. One, moul

es frites. Two, steak frites. Three, polenta pound cake. Unfortunately it was early afternoon and I would have to wait until after work to head over and sample the wares. Thankfully, my family is game for these adventures and looks forward to them as much as I do.

Kitchen does not have a glamourous exterior and is set back in a strip mall next door to a laundromat. However, the mall does house the Chapel Hill outpost of

Durham's

beloved Foster's Market as well as a new bookstore, so that may help get the word out. In any event, once you walk inside, you forget about the humble exterior. We were greeted warmly and ushered to a table on the long end of the L-shaped dining room. The room is painted a warm yellow with a touch of gray. the tables and chairs are black as is the small bar. The high ceilings give the room a larger feel. I loved the linen dishtowels used as napkins.

As some of you know, one of my favorite spots is Barbarella in La Jolla, California. It is a delightful neighborhood restaurant with reasonable prices where you can drop in at any time for a salad, pizza or full meal. The atmosphere is casual and convivial but the food is prepared with a careful hand. I always look for this type of restaurant in my travels and near home. Kitchen, although currently only open for dinner (but at 4 which makes it a possibility for a late lunch), may be this type of spot for me.

I was anxious to dig in, so I gave the menu a cursory glance to refresh my memory from the online version. Truth be told, I knew I was going for the mussels. While my husband, Georges, makes the best moules frites ever, it is a time-consuming enterprise and not one that he has time to undertake very often.

From what I could see, Kitchen has already attracted a loyal following. There were repeat customers and also couples and colleagues meeting at the bar for an after-work bite.

We ordered an grenache blanc and a prosecco to sip while we waited for our appetizers. I decided on the chopped salad ($8, blue cheese, beets, walnuts) Georges the vodka and beet-cured salmon with sweet and sour cucumber salad (pictured above, $9), and Giselle the sweet and smoky almonds ($4).

For entrees, Georges went for the steaks frites ($18), I couldn't resist the moules frites with thai red curry ($12) and Giselle decided on four-cheese ravioli with a kalamata olive tapenade ($11).

Before the appetizers arrived, we were brought a plate of fresh french bread and olive oil for dipping. One nice touch was the salt and pepper sprinkled on the plate so that you could dip in the oil and then dip in the salt and pepper. Never seen it done that way before. Also never had my frites served in an old-fashioned metal measuring cup, but it was cute.

So how was the food? Really, really good. In bar parlance, many people have a local. The neighborhood spot that you go to time and again because it feels good. Kitchen could become our local. The thai red curry was so good that I was eating it with my spoon after the mussels were gone. Giselle demolished the ravioli and we even ate the frites, which is saying a lot for the van Hoes who use Georges' frites as the standard by which all others are judged. The fries weren't as good as his, but they were a stand-up representation.

You would think that there would be no room for dessert, but you would be wrong. With all that went before being so delicious, we had to go for it. Georges and Giselle shared the dark chocolate almond torte ($5), a luscious, rich slice of heaven.

At least I think so, because it disappeared without my being offered a bite. I had to try the toasted polenta poundcake ($5). It was served with blueberries and a lemon cream. The cake itself was not too sweet, and the berries and cream balanced it nicely. We paired the cake with a half-bottle of sparkling moscato.

Pleasantly full and pleased with our discovery, we headed home with thoughts of our next visit in our heads. After all, we need to try the burger, the sauted calamari and the housemade merguez, oh my.

A Tale of Two Charlottes

It was the best of Charlotte and the worst of Charlotte. That sums up my two dining experiences in the Queen City last weekend. We were off to rendezvous with Grandma and our cousins. I approached the trip with few dining expectations based on the fact that we would be in group dining situations. Few people are as dedicated to the pursuit of good food as I. Without so much as a consultation of the Triple D website, Giselle and I cruised down to Charlotte with our culinary future uncertain.

As usual, we arrived hungry. Thankfully, Grandma was hungry too. We had passed the Stonecrest shopping center on our way in and spotted a Dean & Deluca store which seemed a harbinger of good dining possibilities within the center. As we drove around, I spotted Cantina 1511, a Mexican restaurant I remembered from a previous Chowhound search. While usually skeptical of any east coast Mexican, we decided to give it shot based on the excellent reviews.

I believe this is the second location of this local favorite, the first being in Uptown (Charlotte's confusing name for its downtown area). We entered through heavy wooden doors into a large space divided into a bar/lounge area and the main dining room. Our waitress led us to a table by the window, but it was too hot and sunny to open the wooden shutters. Still, it felt like we were on a terrace, if not in Mexico, also not like a strip mall.

Drinks, a peach mojito for Grandma and a house margarita on the rocks for me, arrived quickly. Both were a hit. There was an extensive cocktail list and at least 10 different margaritas. I would definitely return for happy hour with a designated driver.

On to the main event. The menu is divided into two sections "Authentic Mexican" and "TexMex." I appreciated the distinction and thought that this was a promising sign for the food that was to come. The server informed us that the chef had just returned from Oaxaca, Mexico, where he makes frequent trips to study the cuisine. I found it odd that there were no Oaxacan moles on the menu, but that's a minor quibble.

We ordered guacamole to start. They make it tableside! And, Giselle got to be the sous chef on the preparation, too cute. The result was delicious and she will now have a new job at future fiestas at Casa van Hoe. Giselle ate so much of the green stuff I thought she might be ill. It was so tasty and fresh it was hard to stop. The accompanying salsa was good too, with just enough bite to be interesting without tuning off folks who don't like spicy food.

Once I saw the Tacos al Pastor on the menu, I knew what I would have. I ended up with a combo plate with one of the al Pastor tacos and a carne asada taco, plus rice and charro beans. Giselle ordered the kids chicken soft taco and Grandmas went with a plate of crispy tacos with shrimp and crab. After our meals arrived there wasn't much talking, just happy eaters.

While the coconut flan and cuatro leches cake were tempting, I was too full to partake. I look forward to another trip to Charlotte for an excuse to revisit Cantina 1511.

Now to the dark side of the Queen City, and not just because of the threatening storm clouds. On Sunday, our group went out in search of southern seafood and soul food. I had heard about a place called Mert's Heart and Soul in Uptown, so we drove 20 miles from the Ballantyne area to check it out. The importance of the drive will come into play later.

We had to drive around Uptown a bit to find parking, but it gave us a chance to see the heart of Charlotte. The Bank of America tower is a centerpiece of the skyscape. Discovery Place was humming with inquisitive children, and we also drove by the Harvey Gantt Center for African American culture. For those with a love of loud cars, the NASCAR Hall of Fame is nearby too. Plenty to occupy an afternoon.

We were all pleasantly surprised by Mert's. It was a cute little place with red walls adorned with family photos and old record albums. The food smelled and looked good on the plates we glimpsed going by. Even though they were busy, we were seated immediately. So far, so good. I love supporting independent restaurants and was excited to see this one doing so well.

Here's where the story turns ugly. We waited 10-15 minutes for a server to come over (I'm being generous here.). We gave her our drink orders and lunch orders at the same time since time seemed to be an issue. After another 15 minutes, we got our drinks. Fifteen minutes after that, we got a piece of cornbread. I will be fair, the cornbread was excellent. Moist, buttery and piping hot. But notice, we are 45 minutes into our visit already. We have two hungry children with us. Not going well. And, the table behind us had complained to the manager about the delay and they came in after we did!

At the one-hour mark, food arrived at our table. Not all the food that we ordered, but some. Giselle had fried chicken with collard greens and mac-and-cheese. She went straight to work on it and seemed to enjoy it. Our young cousin received his pancake, but not the accompanying eggs or turkey sausage. My cousin received her full order, but the turkey sausage was raw in the middle. My mother did not receive anything. I think you can see where this is going.

After repeated attempts to flag down a server to bring some syrup for the pancake, we finally got some. I was waiting to dig in until my mother got her food. When asked, the server said it was coming. About 10 minutes later, a plate arrived. It was neither the right type of fish nor the correct side items. And I will add that it was a whole catfish. Some people don't mind a whole fish. My mother is not one of them. The gaping catfish mouth put her over the edge.

Now it was time for the manager. Let me say that this guy was a hustler. I saw him in the kitchen plating orders in between seating customers. He was very apologetic and after some discussion he decided to comp our entire check. I think this was good customer service and showed respect for our displeasure. I can honestly say this was the worst experience I have ever had in a restaurant, and you know, dear reader, that I dine out quite frequently. That being said, I would give Mert's another chance sometime in the distant future once the memory fades. I have to believe that our experience was an anomaly. Otherwise there is no way they could stay in business.

So there you have it. I look forward to a return visit to Charlotte for shopping, museum hopping and a return trip to Cantina 1511. And I still need to try those Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives spots like Dish.

Fee Fi Pho: Lime and Basil in Chapel Hill

When you work at home every day, you sometimes forget that the outside world exists. Especially in the winter, it's easier to stay snug in your warm cocoon rather than venture out. It's easy to lose track of time as well. So at least once a week, I like to go out to lunch. And in a new area, there are lots of spots to explore.

My neighbor celebrated a birthday recently so I invited her to lunch. After mulling over our choices, we decided to try somewhere new to both of us, Lime and Basil, on West Franklin in downtown Chapel Hill. In California, my officemates and I used to go to Pho Nam every week to satisfy our craving for that fortifying bowl of Vietnamese soupy goodness. Lime and Basil serves pho (pronounced "fuh") as well as plate lunches.

It was cold that day, so I went with the pho. Whatever ails you, pho will help. Basically, it's a bowl of rich, flavorful broth to which you can add your choice of a variety of meats including eye of round, brisket, flank steak and Vietnamese meatballs. I chose the eye of round and the meatballs. The steaming bowl of broth, meat and rice noodles arrives at your table accompanied by a plate of crunchy beans sprouts, basil and jalapenos for garnish. There are also a variety of sauces, one similar to hoisin, Sriracha and chile garlic to season the pho to your liking. Everything tasted very fresh and the meat was high-quality.

In my experience, there is no elegant way to consume pho. Just let yourself go and slurp your way to sheer delight. Just watch your clothes. I have been known to go with the old-man look of the napkin tucked into my shirt to avoid the inevitable splashes.

If you're not feeling like pho, Lime and Basil also offers grilled lemongrass pork, chicken and shrimp lunch plates served with rice or noodles. My neighbor tried the pork and pronounced it very good. For an economical, tasty lunch, I recommend Lime and Basil.

The Details

Lime and Basil

200 West Franklin St.

Chapel Hill, NC 27516

919.967.5055

Note: It's a fairly small spot so you might want to get a table before noon.

Neal's Deli: The Fine Art of Sandwich Making

A couple of years ago, the Chapel Hill-Durham area was named America's Foodiest Small Town. One of the establishments highlighted was Neal's Deli in Carrboro, NC. I am sometimes suspicious of "Best Of" lists because they often are based on many criteria other than food quality or feature establishments resting on old reputations. But, ever the optimist, we ventured into downtown Carrboro to give it a try.

Neal's Deli a small storefront with a narrow wooden porch that has a slim counter for dining. Inside there are a few high tables with stools. I usually go early so it's not too crowded and have always found a seat. I think many people do take-out here. The menu is small and focused which I take as a good sign, especially since they make almost everything in-house. There are usually a couple of sandwich specials and a soup of the day featured. For the computer-addicted, you can subscribe to the deli's RSS feed and be notified daily. While I know some people find menu references to a food's provenance tiresome, I like knowing that the zucchini on my sandwich came from Brinkley Farms, even if I don't know where that is.

On my first visit, I chose the grilled zucchini sandwich featuring squash from the aforementioned Brinkley Farms and creamy goat cheese. It came on a Guglhupf Bretzel roll which is just what it sounds like, a roll with a crisp, pretzelly (yes I coined that word) outside and a soft, tender interior. Guglhupf, a bakery in Durham, is worthy of a discussion of its own for their out-of-this-world baked goods, but suffice it to say that the Bretzel is the perfect platform for this sandwich. Every ingredient maintained its individual character and yet melded magically with the others. The tomato was red and juicy, the lettuce crisp and the pickle on the side homemade. I rounded out the meal with a bag of Zapp's Creole Tomato potato chips which were crunchy, spicy bursts of joy in my mouth. I could not stop eating them way after I was full. On that visit, Georges had the Italian sub special which included a bag of chips and a drink for $7. The meat was fresh and authentic and the roll the perfect texture for the sandwich. We were happy customers.

On another bright fall day, we decided to go back and sample something new. I had been singing the praises of Neal's to my few acquaintances in town (we had only lived here about two months) and I wanted to see if lightning could strike twice. This time I tried the Veggie ($7), a pressed sandwich layered with pureed cannelini beans, roasted carrots, wilted spinach and pickled red onions. Personally, I would never have put those ingredients together except in a soup, but the depth of flavor and texture was fantastic. The smooth beans, the bite of the carrots, the acid of the onions, just worked well together. And it was pressed in a panini grill and served warm and toasty.

I left the Zapp's on the counter this trip and tried the delicata squash soup ($3.50 per cup). I love squash soups, but am often too lazy to roast and puree the squash myself. It's true. So, when I see it on a menu, I gravitate towards it. I was not disappointed by Neal's version. It managed to be rich with flavor, but light at the same time. Delicious.

Georges went out on a limb and ordered the tuna sandwich, something he rarely eats. Neal's version combines albacore tuna with capers, anchovies, onions, roasted peppers, lettuce, tomato, oil and vinegar on a sub roll for a decidedly Mediterranean slant. Nary a drop of mayo or pickle relish in sight. He pronounced it "Excellent" and I'll take his word for it since I didn't act fast enough to score a bite.

As you can tell, I love this place. I'll close with one final note: homemade pastrami and corned beef. If you've never had these tasty treats, get yourself over to Neal's. The Manhattan features the pastrami, with house-made slaw and Russian dressing on that Guglhupf rye. The Reuben has the corned beef, with sauerkraut, Swiss and Russian dressing on the same rye. Seriously good eating.

Neal's also serves breakfast, but I never seem to be in Carrboro in the morning. Take a look at the menu to learn more. I'm sure that they take the same care with their biscuits and breakfast fare as they do with the midday meal.

The Details

Neal's Deli

100 E. Main St.

Carrboro, NC

Raise Your Glass to Toast

I had been hearing good things about Toast from various sources including my favorite, Chowhound. Originally, I planned on Watts Grocery for lunch. However, they're not open on Mondays. So, lucky us, we decided to try Toast in Five Points, downtown Durham. Having driven by a few times, we were impressed by the crowds assembled outside, and I thought this self-described paninoteca must be doing something right.

The glass storefront displayed happy diners digging into their lunches. The spot is spare, but warm, with bright walls and silver cafe tables. You order at the small counter, receive a number and find a table.

It was a rainy, dreary day, so I immediately looked to the soup of the day to warm my bones. I was excited to see a creamy cauliflower soup on the menu. After perusing the list of panini (hot grilled sandwich on rustic Italian bread), tramezzini (crustless cold sandwiches on white pullman bread) and bruschettas (hearty grilled bread served with a selection of toppings), I selected the Tuscan kale, ricotta salata and hot pepper combo. Georges ordered the prosciutto, mozzarella and tomato with the soup as well. Since it was a holiday, we also tried the verdicchio, a dry white Italian wine. In addition to wine and beer, Toast offers a variety of specialty sodas.

While paying, I spotted a tasty looking salad concoction with beets and oranges that turned out to be a bruschetta. The delightful counterperson (whom I suspect was an owner) offered to change my order, but I was craving greens and stuck with my selections.

A few sips of wine later, our order was delivered to our table. We both dipped into the soup first. It was creamy and flavorful, rich without thickeners and tons of cream, just the essence of the cauliflower, a drizzle of good olive oil and a smattering of hazelnuts and capers for texture and salt.

I loved my panino—the earthy goodness of the kale, the salty ricotta salata and the spicy bite of hot peppers were the perfect combination for me. Georges enjoyed his as well. Hard to go wrong with a classic combo like prosciutto and mozzarella.

I loved Toast and can't wait to go back to try that beet and orange bruschetta, and other panini like the Italian sausage, broccoli rabe and roasted garlic, and spicy tuna, olivada, fennel and lemon. Or maybe, a tramezzini of cured salmon, watercress, pickled red onion and lemon aioli. The possibilities are seemingly endless.

Details:

Toast

345 W. Main Street

Durham, NC 27701

919.683.2183

Coastal Shifts

First, I must apologize for the nearly year-long lapse in writing. In August, we relocated from Palo Alto, CA to Chapel Hill, NC. The change brings a whole new food culture to explore. And beyond the southern staples of fried chicken and BBQ (with vinegar sauce!), you'll find a community as dedicated to the locavore movement as any in California. Many young chefs have returned to their hometowns with the skills and techniques they learned in the kitchens around the world. So while we still search for Mexican food on par with California, we are enjoying the discovery of new favorites, including fresh North Carolina flounder as tender, flaky and delicious; a German-style bakery with melt-in-your-mouth pastries; a local deli that makes its own corned beef and pastrami; and a dairy farm with fresh-churned ice cream that takes you back to another time.

And, I'm still traveling often to California so there will be updates from there as well. Stay tuned. Dawnville is back.