Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Neal's Deli: The Fine Art of Sandwich Making













A couple of years ago, the Chapel Hill-Durham area was named America's Foodiest Small Town. One of the establishments highlighted was Neal's Deli in Carrboro, NC. I am sometimes suspicious of "Best Of" lists because they often are based on many criteria other than food quality or feature establishments resting on old reputations. But, ever the optimist, we ventured into downtown Carrboro to give it a try.

Neal's Deli a small storefront with a narrow wooden porch that has a slim counter for dining. Inside there are a few high tables with stools. I usually go early so it's not too crowded and have always found a seat. I think many people do take-out here. The menu is small and focused which I take as a good sign, especially since they make almost everything in-house. There are usually a couple of sandwich specials and a soup of the day featured. For the computer-addicted, you can subscribe to the deli's RSS feed and be notified daily. While I know some people find menu references to a food's provenance tiresome, I like knowing that the zucchini on my sandwich came from Brinkley Farms, even if I don't know where that is.

On my first visit, I chose the grilled zucchini sandwich featuring squash from the aforementioned Brinkley Farms and creamy goat cheese. It came on a Guglhupf Bretzel roll which is just what it sounds like, a roll with a crisp, pretzelly (yes I coined that word) outside and a soft, tender interior. Guglhupf, a bakery in Durham, is worthy of a discussion of its own for their out-of-this-world baked goods, but suffice it to say that the Bretzel is the perfect platform for this sandwich. Every ingredient maintained its individual character and yet melded magically with the others. The tomato was red and juicy, the lettuce crisp and the pickle on the side homemade. I rounded out the meal with a bag of Zapp's Creole Tomato potato chips which were crunchy, spicy bursts of joy in my mouth. I could not stop eating them way after I was full. On that visit, Georges had the Italian sub special which included a bag of chips and a drink for $7. The meat was fresh and authentic and the roll the perfect texture for the sandwich. We were happy customers.




On another bright fall day, we decided to go back and sample something new. I had been singing the praises of Neal's to my few acquaintances in town (we had only lived here about two months) and I wanted to see if lightning could strike twice. This time I tried the Veggie ($7), a pressed sandwich layered with pureed cannelini beans, roasted carrots, wilted spinach and pickled red onions. Personally, I would never have put those ingredients together except in a soup, but the depth of flavor and texture was fantastic. The smooth beans, the bite of the carrots, the acid of the onions, just worked well together. And it was pressed in a panini grill and served warm and toasty.




I left the Zapp's on the counter this trip and tried the delicata squash soup ($3.50 per cup). I love squash soups, but am often too lazy to roast and puree the squash myself. It's true. So, when I see it on a menu, I gravitate towards it. I was not disappointed by Neal's version. It managed to be rich with flavor, but light at the same time. Delicious.















Georges went out on a limb and ordered the tuna sandwich, something he rarely eats. Neal's version combines albacore tuna with capers, anchovies, onions, roasted peppers, lettuce, tomato, oil and vinegar on a sub roll for a decidedly Mediterranean slant. Nary a drop of mayo or pickle relish in sight. He pronounced it "Excellent" and I'll take his word for it since I didn't act fast enough to score a bite.














As you can tell, I love this place. I'll close with one final note: homemade pastrami and corned beef. If you've never had these tasty treats, get yourself over to Neal's. The Manhattan features the pastrami, with house-made slaw and Russian dressing on that Guglhupf rye. The Reuben has the corned beef, with sauerkraut, Swiss and Russian dressing on the same rye. Seriously good eating.



Neal's also serves breakfast, but I never seem to be in Carrboro in the morning. Take a look at the menu to learn more. I'm sure that they take the same care with their biscuits and breakfast fare as they do with the midday meal.

The Details
Neal's Deli
100 E. Main St.
Carrboro, NC



No comments:

Post a Comment