Something Good is Cookin' at Kitchen

As you know, I get excited about a new restaurant the way that normal people do about a new puppy or a trip to Cancun. What can I say, eating is my passion. And while some may disagree, I think it is a noble pursuit. After all, I am like a medieval food tester. I save you the trouble of eating dreck and instead point you to the good stuff.

I happened to spot a mention in our local rag, The Raleigh News & Observer, about the opening of Kitchen in Chapel Hill. As I scanned the blurb I saw that it was located in Midtown Market, a mere stone's throw from my door. I quickly did an online cross-reference of my favorite foodies and discovered that Kitchen is a new bistro in town. It may be the only bistro. And as it turns out, that's alright with me.

After perusing the menu online, a few things intrigued me. One, moul

es frites. Two, steak frites. Three, polenta pound cake. Unfortunately it was early afternoon and I would have to wait until after work to head over and sample the wares. Thankfully, my family is game for these adventures and looks forward to them as much as I do.

Kitchen does not have a glamourous exterior and is set back in a strip mall next door to a laundromat. However, the mall does house the Chapel Hill outpost of

Durham's

beloved Foster's Market as well as a new bookstore, so that may help get the word out. In any event, once you walk inside, you forget about the humble exterior. We were greeted warmly and ushered to a table on the long end of the L-shaped dining room. The room is painted a warm yellow with a touch of gray. the tables and chairs are black as is the small bar. The high ceilings give the room a larger feel. I loved the linen dishtowels used as napkins.

As some of you know, one of my favorite spots is Barbarella in La Jolla, California. It is a delightful neighborhood restaurant with reasonable prices where you can drop in at any time for a salad, pizza or full meal. The atmosphere is casual and convivial but the food is prepared with a careful hand. I always look for this type of restaurant in my travels and near home. Kitchen, although currently only open for dinner (but at 4 which makes it a possibility for a late lunch), may be this type of spot for me.

I was anxious to dig in, so I gave the menu a cursory glance to refresh my memory from the online version. Truth be told, I knew I was going for the mussels. While my husband, Georges, makes the best moules frites ever, it is a time-consuming enterprise and not one that he has time to undertake very often.

From what I could see, Kitchen has already attracted a loyal following. There were repeat customers and also couples and colleagues meeting at the bar for an after-work bite.

We ordered an grenache blanc and a prosecco to sip while we waited for our appetizers. I decided on the chopped salad ($8, blue cheese, beets, walnuts) Georges the vodka and beet-cured salmon with sweet and sour cucumber salad (pictured above, $9), and Giselle the sweet and smoky almonds ($4).

For entrees, Georges went for the steaks frites ($18), I couldn't resist the moules frites with thai red curry ($12) and Giselle decided on four-cheese ravioli with a kalamata olive tapenade ($11).

Before the appetizers arrived, we were brought a plate of fresh french bread and olive oil for dipping. One nice touch was the salt and pepper sprinkled on the plate so that you could dip in the oil and then dip in the salt and pepper. Never seen it done that way before. Also never had my frites served in an old-fashioned metal measuring cup, but it was cute.

So how was the food? Really, really good. In bar parlance, many people have a local. The neighborhood spot that you go to time and again because it feels good. Kitchen could become our local. The thai red curry was so good that I was eating it with my spoon after the mussels were gone. Giselle demolished the ravioli and we even ate the frites, which is saying a lot for the van Hoes who use Georges' frites as the standard by which all others are judged. The fries weren't as good as his, but they were a stand-up representation.

You would think that there would be no room for dessert, but you would be wrong. With all that went before being so delicious, we had to go for it. Georges and Giselle shared the dark chocolate almond torte ($5), a luscious, rich slice of heaven.

At least I think so, because it disappeared without my being offered a bite. I had to try the toasted polenta poundcake ($5). It was served with blueberries and a lemon cream. The cake itself was not too sweet, and the berries and cream balanced it nicely. We paired the cake with a half-bottle of sparkling moscato.

Pleasantly full and pleased with our discovery, we headed home with thoughts of our next visit in our heads. After all, we need to try the burger, the sauted calamari and the housemade merguez, oh my.