Dawnville

You Say You Want a Revolution

2011-03-11T16:03:00.001-08:00

The Friday lunch series continues. Today we tried Revolution, a Chowhound-endorsed spot in downtown Durham.

A few weeks ago I signed up for the Revolution Lunch Counter emails. Every Tuesday, I get the week's lunch selections. It is a short, but well thought out selection of a special soup, salad, pasta, fish and meat dishes. And there's always a Mexican selection, which us what drew me in today.

I am a sucker for steak and guacamole, so the Kobe Beef Fajitas with spanish rice, mango salsa, roasted guacamole and cilantro crema had my name all over it. My lunchmate wanted to try the cream of broccoli soup with truffle oil with crostini. I'm glad he did and agreed to my request for two spoons. It was a huge bowl of creamy deliciousness, full of flavor and not overpowered by the swirl of truffle oil.

To our waiter's surprise, we ordered two glasses of the Falanghina to sip while we waited. According to him, "Most people don't drink at lunch." Clearly these people have not done lunch with the Dawnville team.

Usually I like to order two different dishes at a new restaurant to get an idea of the offerings, but neither of us could resist the fajitas. We both dug in heartily. The Kobe beef was cooked medium-rare and tender. The combo of the savory onions and peppers, cool mango salsa and creamy guacamole made a perfect bite rolled in the toothsome corn tortilla. The rice was very flavorful with a fine couscous-like grain. We ran out of tortillas before we finished the healthy portion of fillings, but the separate ingredients stood up on their own.

I couldn't resist a peek at the dessert menu. While I was pleasantly full after my lunch, but apple crisp is one of my favorites.

Revolution's version is constructed like a muffin with a crispy, crumbcake topping and a rich, dense apple filling.

While finishing dessert, we perused the dinner menu and were intrigued by the chef's tasting menus. There are three tiers with three-, four- or five courses. The chef creates the menu on the spot for your table. Sounds fabulous.

Revolution is a modern restaurant that manages to present style and substance. Can't wait to see what's up next for lunch.

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Paris in Durham? Mais oui!

2011-02-06T10:32:00.001-08:00

Our second visit to Vin Rouge was just as delightful as the first. Today's brunch included scrambled eggs with salmon and capers for the adults,

and the requisite moules frites for Miss G.

Close your eyes and you could be on the left bank.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:2010 hillsborough road Durham

Glasshalfull is the Right Perspective on Life

2011-01-22T17:31:00.000-08:00

Tonight we had the good fortune to find ourselves free for a dinner out. Little G was playing with a friend, and when we tried to retrieve her around dinner time, she was having too much fun to head home. Never ones to look a gift horse in the mouth, we took the opportunity to try a new place (new to us anyway).

Across from our beloved Neal's Deli sits Glasshalfull, a Tapas Bar/Restaurant/Wine Bar/Wine Store. As you can see from the description, there seems to be a bit of an identity crisis, which may have been a reason for our reluctance to try it out. All I can say is that I am sorry that I wasted 17 months in Chapel Hill without dining here.

The restaurant has a great energy and interior space that is open and inviting . Exposed, distressed brick walls and warm lighting give the space an urban vibe that belies the Carrboro location. There's a large patio for outdoor dining in the warmer months.

You Had Me at Pisco Sour

We arrived fairly early, around 6:15, and decided to sit at the bar vs. a table. The bar is large and horseshoe-shaped, with a large granite counter, perfect for spreading out the small plate selections.

The wine list is on the front of the menu, which indicates the seriousness of the owners about beverages. I spotted a J Vineyards rose champagne by the glass and Big G ordered a Girodano prosecco. One of the things I liked about the wine service was that you could order the wine in 3 oz. or 5 oz. pours, giving you the opportunity to taste lots of things.

After settling in with our bubbles, we started to peruse the menu which offered tapas specials, small plates and large plates. Having been treated to delicious dim sum by our neighbors earlier in the day, we were happy to have an assortment of small bites to chose from. Note to self: small bites quickly become big meals if you eat enough of them. More on that later.

Initially, we ordered wild mushroom croquetas and jamon serrano from the tapas special menu. The jamon serrano was silky smooth and porky without being too strong. And how can you go wrong with mushrooms and bechamel coated with breadcrumbs and deep-fried? Answer: you can't. Warm, gooey and delicious about sums it up.

As we were deciding on the next round, I noticed the cocktail selection on the back of the menu. I literally gasped with delight when I saw Pisco Sour on the list. I love this frothy, sweet and sour, ethereal Peruvian concoction. I rarely see it on menus, so I had to have one. Never mind that it probably wasn't an appropriate pairing with the seafood tapas to come. It was delicious. One of the best I've had.

We sampled an intermezzo of tuna lollipops, also part of the tapas menu. The ahi was perfectly seared and crusted with black and white sesame seeds and served with a sherry dipping sauce. The tangy salad of fennel, apple and radish in a mustard dressing was a tart, tasty complement to the delicate flavor of the fish.

And the eat goes on...

OK, here's where the small plates turns into a big feast. Who could resist a trio of mini-Maine lobster rolls. I admit that I am a sucker for small food, but really what evokes summer, in the middle of winter, more than a lobster roll?

Maybe not if you're from Nebraska, but on the eastern seaboard this is a no-brainer. And to go with the lobster, fries of course. With a four-herb seasoning. The fries were the skinny French frites variety, Very well prepared and tasty.

Now at this point, a reasonable person would have stopped. But my neighbor at the bar ordered the cheese plate. I was not in the mood for dessert, but cheese, that's a different story. And to be fair to the restaurant, we had to take a look at the dessert menu. The profiteroles filled with coffee cream caught our eye. They came drizzled with caramel sauce and hazelnuts. Ridiculously good. Many places serve stale pastry with store-bought ice cream, doing a great disservice to one of the great, simple desserts of all time. Not here. Every element was as it should have been, combining into satisfying bites of tender pastry, rich cream, sweet caramel and crunchy nuts.

And the cheese plate featured three selections, Campo de Montalban, a combination of sheep, cow and goat's milk from La Mancha Spain drizzled with local honey; Saint-Andre triple-cream from France with toasted hazelnuts; and Mahon, a cow's milk cheese from Minorca served with quince paste
I liked them all, but loved the contrast between the Mahon and the quince. I sampled the cheese with a Clos Saint Vincent St. Emilion.

Chatting with the bartender at the end of our meal, we learned that the chef is a CIA graduate and studied in Spain with Ferran Adria, the chef associated with the molecular gastronomy movement. And following up with a little research of my own at home, I learned that he is only 25. I think he has a great future ahead of him and hope he's in North Carolina to stay for awhile. Seriously, this is one of the best start-to-finish dining experiences we've had since arriving in Tarheel country. It's a versatile dining experience that you can make your own. Stop by for a quick drink and some tapas, a full dinner, or dessert at the bar.

Glasshalfull

106 Greensboro St.

Carrboro, NC

Lunch at Toast

2011-01-07T09:07:00.001-08:00

On the menu today: cauliflower soup with brown butter, capers and pinenuts; egg salad tramezzini (Italian for a little cold sandwich) for me;

prosciutto, mozzarella and tomato panini for Georges;

and two glasses of Macrina verdicchio.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:E Chapel Hill St,Durham,United States

Something Good is Cookin' at Kitchen

2010-07-19T12:05:00.000-07:00

As you know, I get excited about a new restaurant the way that normal people do about a new puppy or a trip to Cancun. What can I say, eating is my passion. And while some may disagree, I think it is a noble pursuit. After all, I am like a medieval food tester. I save you the trouble of eating dreck and instead point you to the good stuff.

I happened to spot a mention in our local rag, The Raleigh News & Observer, about the opening of Kitchen in Chapel Hill. As I scanned the blurb I saw that it was located in Midtown Market, a mere stone's throw from my door. I quickly did an online cross-reference of my favorite foodies and discovered that Kitchen is a new bistro in town. It may be the only bistro. And as it turns out, that's alright with me.

After perusing the menu online, a few things intrigued me. One, moul

es frites. Two, steak frites. Three, polenta pound cake. Unfortunately it was early afternoon and I would have to wait until after work to head over and sample the wares. Thankfully, my family is game for these adventures and looks forward to them as much as I do.

Kitchen does not have a glamourous exterior and is set back in a strip mall next door to a laundromat. However, the mall does house the Chapel Hill outpost of

Durham's

beloved Foster's Market as well as a new bookstore, so that may help get the word out. In any event, once you walk inside, you forget about the humble exterior. We were greeted warmly and ushered to a table on the long end of the L-shaped dining room. The room is painted a warm yellow with a touch of gray. the tables and chairs are black as is the small bar. The high ceilings give the room a larger feel. I loved the linen dishtowels used as napkins.

As some of you know, one of my favorite spots is Barbarella in La Jolla, California. It is a delightful neighborhood restaurant with reasonable prices where you can drop in at any time for a salad, pizza or full meal. The atmosphere is casual and convivial but the food is prepared with a careful hand. I always look for this type of restaurant in my travels and near home. Kitchen, although currently only open for dinner (but at 4 which makes it a possibility for a late lunch), may be this type of spot for me.

I was anxious to dig in, so I gave the menu a cursory glance to refresh my memory from the online version. Truth be told, I knew I was going for the mussels. While my husband, Georges, makes the best moules frites ever, it is a time-consuming enterprise and not one that he has time to undertake very often.

From what I could see, Kitchen has already attracted a loyal following. There were repeat customers and also couples and colleagues meeting at the bar for an after-work bite.

We ordered an grenache blanc and a prosecco to sip while we waited for our appetizers. I decided on the chopped salad ($8, blue cheese, beets, walnuts) Georges the vodka and beet-cured salmon with sweet and sour cucumber salad (pictured above, $9), and Giselle the sweet and smoky almonds ($4).

For entrees, Georges went for the steaks frites ($18), I couldn't resist the moules frites with thai red curry ($12) and Giselle decided on four-cheese ravioli with a kalamata olive tapenade ($11).

Before the appetizers arrived, we were brought a plate of fresh french bread and olive oil for dipping. One nice touch was the salt and pepper sprinkled on the plate so that you could dip in the oil and then dip in the salt and pepper. Never seen it done that way before. Also never had my frites served in an old-fashioned metal measuring cup, but it was cute.

So how was the food? Really, really good. In bar parlance, many people have a local. The neighborhood spot that you go to time and again because it feels good. Kitchen could become our local. The thai red curry was so good that I was eating it with my spoon after the mussels were gone. Giselle demolished the ravioli and we even ate the frites, which is saying a lot for the van Hoes who use Georges' frites as the standard by which all others are judged. The fries weren't as good as his, but they were a stand-up representation.

You would think that there would be no room for dessert, but you would be wrong. With all that went before being so delicious, we had to go for it. Georges and Giselle shared the dark chocolate almond torte ($5), a luscious, rich slice of heaven.

At least I think so, because it disappeared without my being offered a bite. I had to try the toasted polenta poundcake ($5). It was served with blueberries and a lemon cream. The cake itself was not too sweet, and the berries and cream balanced it nicely. We paired the cake with a half-bottle of sparkling moscato.

Pleasantly full and pleased with our discovery, we headed home with thoughts of our next visit in our heads. After all, we need to try the burger, the sauted calamari and the housemade merguez, oh my.

A Tale of Two Charlottes

2010-07-19T07:15:00.000-07:00

It was the best of Charlotte and the worst of Charlotte. That sums up my two dining experiences in the Queen City last weekend. We were off to rendezvous with Grandma and our cousins. I approached the trip with few dining expectations based on the fact that we would be in group dining situations. Few people are as dedicated to the pursuit of good food as I. Without so much as a consultation of the Triple D website, Giselle and I cruised down to Charlotte with our culinary future uncertain.

As usual, we arrived hungry. Thankfully, Grandma was hungry too. We had passed the Stonecrest shopping center on our way in and spotted a Dean & Deluca store which seemed a harbinger of good dining possibilities within the center. As we drove around, I spotted Cantina 1511, a Mexican restaurant I remembered from a previous Chowhound search. While usually skeptical of any east coast Mexican, we decided to give it shot based on the excellent reviews.

I believe this is the second location of this local favorite, the first being in Uptown (Charlotte's confusing name for its downtown area). We entered through heavy wooden doors into a large space divided into a bar/lounge area and the main dining room. Our waitress led us to a table by the window, but it was too hot and sunny to open the wooden shutters. Still, it felt like we were on a terrace, if not in Mexico, also not like a strip mall.

Drinks, a peach mojito for Grandma and a house margarita on the rocks for me, arrived quickly. Both were a hit. There was an extensive cocktail list and at least 10 different margaritas. I would definitely return for happy hour with a designated driver.

On to the main event. The menu is divided into two sections "Authentic Mexican" and "TexMex." I appreciated the distinction and thought that this was a promising sign for the food that was to come. The server informed us that the chef had just returned from Oaxaca, Mexico, where he makes frequent trips to study the cuisine. I found it odd that there were no Oaxacan moles on the menu, but that's a minor quibble.

We ordered guacamole to start. They make it tableside! And, Giselle got to be the sous chef on the preparation, too cute. The result was delicious and she will now have a new job at future fiestas at Casa van Hoe. Giselle ate so much of the green stuff I thought she might be ill. It was so tasty and fresh it was hard to stop. The accompanying salsa was good too, with just enough bite to be interesting without tuning off folks who don't like spicy food.

Once I saw the Tacos al Pastor on the menu, I knew what I would have. I ended up with a combo plate with one of the al Pastor tacos and a carne asada taco, plus rice and charro beans. Giselle ordered the kids chicken soft taco and Grandmas went with a plate of crispy tacos with shrimp and crab. After our meals arrived there wasn't much talking, just happy eaters.

While the coconut flan and cuatro leches cake were tempting, I was too full to partake. I look forward to another trip to Charlotte for an excuse to revisit Cantina 1511.

Now to the dark side of the Queen City, and not just because of the threatening storm clouds. On Sunday, our group went out in search of southern seafood and soul food. I had heard about a place called Mert's Heart and Soul in Uptown, so we drove 20 miles from the Ballantyne area to check it out. The importance of the drive will come into play later.

We had to drive around Uptown a bit to find parking, but it gave us a chance to see the heart of Charlotte. The Bank of America tower is a centerpiece of the skyscape. Discovery Place was humming with inquisitive children, and we also drove by the Harvey Gantt Center for African American culture. For those with a love of loud cars, the NASCAR Hall of Fame is nearby too. Plenty to occupy an afternoon.

We were all pleasantly surprised by Mert's. It was a cute little place with red walls adorned with family photos and old record albums. The food smelled and looked good on the plates we glimpsed going by. Even though they were busy, we were seated immediately. So far, so good. I love supporting independent restaurants and was excited to see this one doing so well.

Here's where the story turns ugly. We waited 10-15 minutes for a server to come over (I'm being generous here.). We gave her our drink orders and lunch orders at the same time since time seemed to be an issue. After another 15 minutes, we got our drinks. Fifteen minutes after that, we got a piece of cornbread. I will be fair, the cornbread was excellent. Moist, buttery and piping hot. But notice, we are 45 minutes into our visit already. We have two hungry children with us. Not going well. And, the table behind us had complained to the manager about the delay and they came in after we did!

At the one-hour mark, food arrived at our table. Not all the food that we ordered, but some. Giselle had fried chicken with collard greens and mac-and-cheese. She went straight to work on it and seemed to enjoy it. Our young cousin received his pancake, but not the accompanying eggs or turkey sausage. My cousin received her full order, but the turkey sausage was raw in the middle. My mother did not receive anything. I think you can see where this is going.

After repeated attempts to flag down a server to bring some syrup for the pancake, we finally got some. I was waiting to dig in until my mother got her food. When asked, the server said it was coming. About 10 minutes later, a plate arrived. It was neither the right type of fish nor the correct side items. And I will add that it was a whole catfish. Some people don't mind a whole fish. My mother is not one of them. The gaping catfish mouth put her over the edge.

Now it was time for the manager. Let me say that this guy was a hustler. I saw him in the kitchen plating orders in between seating customers. He was very apologetic and after some discussion he decided to comp our entire check. I think this was good customer service and showed respect for our displeasure. I can honestly say this was the worst experience I have ever had in a restaurant, and you know, dear reader, that I dine out quite frequently. That being said, I would give Mert's another chance sometime in the distant future once the memory fades. I have to believe that our experience was an anomaly. Otherwise there is no way they could stay in business.

So there you have it. I look forward to a return visit to Charlotte for shopping, museum hopping and a return trip to Cantina 1511. And I still need to try those Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives spots like Dish.

Fee Fi Pho: Lime and Basil in Chapel Hill

2010-02-25T13:36:00.000-08:00

When you work at home every day, you sometimes forget that the outside world exists. Especially in the winter, it's easier to stay snug in your warm cocoon rather than venture out. It's easy to lose track of time as well. So at least once a week, I like to go out to lunch. And in a new area, there are lots of spots to explore.

My neighbor celebrated a birthday recently so I invited her to lunch. After mulling over our choices, we decided to try somewhere new to both of us, Lime and Basil, on West Franklin in downtown Chapel Hill. In California, my officemates and I used to go to Pho Nam every week to satisfy our craving for that fortifying bowl of Vietnamese soupy goodness. Lime and Basil serves pho (pronounced "fuh") as well as plate lunches.

It was cold that day, so I went with the pho. Whatever ails you, pho will help. Basically, it's a bowl of rich, flavorful broth to which you can add your choice of a variety of meats including eye of round, brisket, flank steak and Vietnamese meatballs. I chose the eye of round and the meatballs. The steaming bowl of broth, meat and rice noodles arrives at your table accompanied by a plate of crunchy beans sprouts, basil and jalapenos for garnish. There are also a variety of sauces, one similar to hoisin, Sriracha and chile garlic to season the pho to your liking. Everything tasted very fresh and the meat was high-quality.

In my experience, there is no elegant way to consume pho. Just let yourself go and slurp your way to sheer delight. Just watch your clothes. I have been known to go with the old-man look of the napkin tucked into my shirt to avoid the inevitable splashes.

If you're not feeling like pho, Lime and Basil also offers grilled lemongrass pork, chicken and shrimp lunch plates served with rice or noodles. My neighbor tried the pork and pronounced it very good. For an economical, tasty lunch, I recommend Lime and Basil.

The Details

Lime and Basil

200 West Franklin St.

Chapel Hill, NC 27516

919.967.5055

Note: It's a fairly small spot so you might want to get a table before noon.

Neal's Deli: The Fine Art of Sandwich Making

2010-02-16T16:22:00.000-08:00

A couple of years ago, the Chapel Hill-Durham area was named America's Foodiest Small Town. One of the establishments highlighted was Neal's Deli in Carrboro, NC. I am sometimes suspicious of "Best Of" lists because they often are based on many criteria other than food quality or feature establishments resting on old reputations. But, ever the optimist, we ventured into downtown Carrboro to give it a try.

Neal's Deli a small storefront with a narrow wooden porch that has a slim counter for dining. Inside there are a few high tables with stools. I usually go early so it's not too crowded and have always found a seat. I think many people do take-out here. The menu is small and focused which I take as a good sign, especially since they make almost everything in-house. There are usually a couple of sandwich specials and a soup of the day featured. For the computer-addicted, you can subscribe to the deli's RSS feed and be notified daily. While I know some people find menu references to a food's provenance tiresome, I like knowing that the zucchini on my sandwich came from Brinkley Farms, even if I don't know where that is.

On my first visit, I chose the grilled zucchini sandwich featuring squash from the aforementioned Brinkley Farms and creamy goat cheese. It came on a Guglhupf Bretzel roll which is just what it sounds like, a roll with a crisp, pretzelly (yes I coined that word) outside and a soft, tender interior. Guglhupf, a bakery in Durham, is worthy of a discussion of its own for their out-of-this-world baked goods, but suffice it to say that the Bretzel is the perfect platform for this sandwich. Every ingredient maintained its individual character and yet melded magically with the others. The tomato was red and juicy, the lettuce crisp and the pickle on the side homemade. I rounded out the meal with a bag of Zapp's Creole Tomato potato chips which were crunchy, spicy bursts of joy in my mouth. I could not stop eating them way after I was full. On that visit, Georges had the Italian sub special which included a bag of chips and a drink for $7. The meat was fresh and authentic and the roll the perfect texture for the sandwich. We were happy customers.

On another bright fall day, we decided to go back and sample something new. I had been singing the praises of Neal's to my few acquaintances in town (we had only lived here about two months) and I wanted to see if lightning could strike twice. This time I tried the Veggie ($7), a pressed sandwich layered with pureed cannelini beans, roasted carrots, wilted spinach and pickled red onions. Personally, I would never have put those ingredients together except in a soup, but the depth of flavor and texture was fantastic. The smooth beans, the bite of the carrots, the acid of the onions, just worked well together. And it was pressed in a panini grill and served warm and toasty.

I left the Zapp's on the counter this trip and tried the delicata squash soup ($3.50 per cup). I love squash soups, but am often too lazy to roast and puree the squash myself. It's true. So, when I see it on a menu, I gravitate towards it. I was not disappointed by Neal's version. It managed to be rich with flavor, but light at the same time. Delicious.

Georges went out on a limb and ordered the tuna sandwich, something he rarely eats. Neal's version combines albacore tuna with capers, anchovies, onions, roasted peppers, lettuce, tomato, oil and vinegar on a sub roll for a decidedly Mediterranean slant. Nary a drop of mayo or pickle relish in sight. He pronounced it "Excellent" and I'll take his word for it since I didn't act fast enough to score a bite.

As you can tell, I love this place. I'll close with one final note: homemade pastrami and corned beef. If you've never had these tasty treats, get yourself over to Neal's. The Manhattan features the pastrami, with house-made slaw and Russian dressing on that Guglhupf rye. The Reuben has the corned beef, with sauerkraut, Swiss and Russian dressing on the same rye. Seriously good eating.

Neal's also serves breakfast, but I never seem to be in Carrboro in the morning. Take a look at the menu to learn more. I'm sure that they take the same care with their biscuits and breakfast fare as they do with the midday meal.

The Details

Neal's Deli

100 E. Main St.

Carrboro, NC

Raise Your Glass to Toast

2010-02-15T13:44:00.000-08:00

I had been hearing good things about Toast from various sources including my favorite, Chowhound. Originally, I planned on Watts Grocery for lunch. However, they're not open on Mondays. So, lucky us, we decided to try Toast in Five Points, downtown Durham. Having driven by a few times, we were impressed by the crowds assembled outside, and I thought this self-described paninoteca must be doing something right.

The glass storefront displayed happy diners digging into their lunches. The spot is spare, but warm, with bright walls and silver cafe tables. You order at the small counter, receive a number and find a table.

It was a rainy, dreary day, so I immediately looked to the soup of the day to warm my bones. I was excited to see a creamy cauliflower soup on the menu. After perusing the list of panini (hot grilled sandwich on rustic Italian bread), tramezzini (crustless cold sandwiches on white pullman bread) and bruschettas (hearty grilled bread served with a selection of toppings), I selected the Tuscan kale, ricotta salata and hot pepper combo. Georges ordered the prosciutto, mozzarella and tomato with the soup as well. Since it was a holiday, we also tried the verdicchio, a dry white Italian wine. In addition to wine and beer, Toast offers a variety of specialty sodas.

While paying, I spotted a tasty looking salad concoction with beets and oranges that turned out to be a bruschetta. The delightful counterperson (whom I suspect was an owner) offered to change my order, but I was craving greens and stuck with my selections.

A few sips of wine later, our order was delivered to our table. We both dipped into the soup first. It was creamy and flavorful, rich without thickeners and tons of cream, just the essence of the cauliflower, a drizzle of good olive oil and a smattering of hazelnuts and capers for texture and salt.

I loved my panino—the earthy goodness of the kale, the salty ricotta salata and the spicy bite of hot peppers were the perfect combination for me. Georges enjoyed his as well. Hard to go wrong with a classic combo like prosciutto and mozzarella.

I loved Toast and can't wait to go back to try that beet and orange bruschetta, and other panini like the Italian sausage, broccoli rabe and roasted garlic, and spicy tuna, olivada, fennel and lemon. Or maybe, a tramezzini of cured salmon, watercress, pickled red onion and lemon aioli. The possibilities are seemingly endless.

Details:

Toast

345 W. Main Street

Durham, NC 27701

919.683.2183

Coastal Shifts

2010-02-15T07:00:00.001-08:00

First, I must apologize for the nearly year-long lapse in writing. In August, we relocated from Palo Alto, CA to Chapel Hill, NC. The change brings a whole new food culture to explore. And beyond the southern staples of fried chicken and BBQ (with vinegar sauce!), you'll find a community as dedicated to the locavore movement as any in California. Many young chefs have returned to their hometowns with the skills and techniques they learned in the kitchens around the world. So while we still search for Mexican food on par with California, we are enjoying the discovery of new favorites, including fresh North Carolina flounder as tender, flaky and delicious; a German-style bakery with melt-in-your-mouth pastries; a local deli that makes its own corned beef and pastrami; and a dairy farm with fresh-churned ice cream that takes you back to another time.

And, I'm still traveling often to California so there will be updates from there as well. Stay tuned. Dawnville is back.

Dawnville Rant: If the margarita ain't broke...

2009-03-28T17:14:00.000-07:00

If you are of a certain age, you will remember the "New Coke" fiasco of the 1980s. Why do companies need to fiddle with what works? Consistency is what brings you back to your favorite products time after time. The same principle holds true in the restaurant world. That's not to say that innovation isn't welcome. I know chefs get bored. I'm not talking about five-star dining experiences. I'm referring to the places in your town or your neighborhood that you return to again and again. For us, one of those spots is Fiesta del Mar in Mountain View. For nearly fifteen years, we have visited this local favorite for excellent, flavorful Mexican dishes and warm, friendly service. More on that another time. Those memorable meals are always accompanied by frosty glasses of blended margaritas that struck an artful balance of tequila bite and citrus tartness that many family restaurants find hard to achieve.

Imagine our surprise when we settled in for a meal, with out-of-town company in tow, and took a big sip of what tasted like a tequila slurpee. Yikes. Had we dropped into some alternate universe where it looked like Fiesta del Mar, but our restaurant had actually been taken over by aliens without bartending skills? After quickly summoning our waiter, we learned that our precious elixir had been replaced in the interest of margarita gentrification. Out with the house-enhanced commercial sour mix and in with an all homemade version. Apparently, this "New Coke" works okay with the "rocks" margaritas, however all but disappears in the frozen version.

We are not the only old-timers to express our concern with this new recipe. Hopefully our pleas will be heard and the people at the top will revert to the original recipe as our friends at Coca-Cola so wisely did.

Dawnville on the Road: Pete's Seaside Cafe, Avila Beach

2009-03-25T14:45:00.000-07:00

Before we dive into the description, let me say that I loved Pete's Seaside. So much so that I wanted to order another entree immediately after I finished my lunch. It was that good.

OK, now the story. I heard many good things about Pete's through Chowhound, one of my favorite sites for reliable food recommendations. On our last day in Avila we decided to check it out for lunch.

Pete's is located on the Harford Pier, about a mile along the water from the center of town. The pier is home to working fishing boats, seafood shops and the Olde Port restaurant (good for a scenic drink). It's fun to watch the seals frolic below you and some have even made themselves at home on the lower deck of the pier. Signs warn you that they are not friendly and will indeed attack if provoked. That didn't stop us from going down to take a peek at these massive animals lolling in the afternoon sun.

But back to Pete's. It was early for lunch, about 11:30 am, and the deck outside the restaurant was empty. I peered into the takeout window and saw two guys prepping food and chatting. I asked if they were open and got a yes. Usually, I don't like to eat at empty restaurants, but with nary a negative review from Chowhound I thought we would be okay. The menu is expansive for the side of the place which is little more than a small kitchen, beer tap and register. All eating is done al fresco, either under the corrugated tin makeshift roof or in the sun near the sun. All seats provide a view of the Pacific.

George and Giselle ordered shrimp tacos ($4.50) again. I looked over the specials board and chose the fresh halibut taco plate ($6.50), although I was intrigued by the pescado entero ($10), a 1 lb. whole fried fish. We ordered two New Belgium white beers from the tap and took a seat under cover. As we sat and sipped, traffic started to pick up at the window. Lots of regulars which is always a good sign. Within a few minutes, our name was called and we returned to the window to pick up our order. The friendly cook, whom I overheard being called "Nacho" handed us freshly cooked plates that smelled wonderful. I spooned on a little salsa from the condiment bar and hurried back to the table to dive in.

I don't know what the seasoning was on the halibut, but it matched the fish perfectly, giving the normally bland white fish a depth of flavor that just kept me biting away. The accompanying rice and beans tasted homemade. I managed to steal one bite of the shrimp tacos and they were tasty too. As I ate, I watched the later arrivals retrieve their plates. Next time I will definitely try the enchiladas. They are served with either a traditional or chili verde sauce, two giant enchiladas to a plate with a side of the same rice and beans. I was full, but still thinking about the pescado entero, hoping someone would order it so I could see it. I decided not to overdo it and promised myself a stop at Pete's on my next trip to southern California. It is most definitely worth the detour.

Dawnville on the Road: Avila Beach, Day Two

2009-03-25T13:40:00.000-07:00

Nothing compares to waking up by the sea. I know the mountains have their fans, but to me it's no contest. The day dawned warm and without a cloud in the sky. Perfect for our beach day. After breakfast and another visit to Joe Mamma, we staked out our spot for the day, half way between the waves and the swing set to accommodate everyone.

The beach is perfect for strolling or napping. At the northern end, there are great rock formations with action-packed tide pools. The sea anemones fascinated Giselle. In the late afternoon we were rewarded by a performance by a school of dolphins. No matter how many times you see it, it's still an awe-inspiring sight.

Steps away from the beach is the Hula Hut which is a combination gift shop, ice cream parlor and cafe. The staff is friendly and the cafe features daily specials in addition to traditional deli offerings. We selected the Italian sub with chips and the shrimp tacos to carry back to the beach. The sub ingredients were good, spicy salami and sopressata with provolone and an oil and vinegar dressing. The roll was fresh, but not of artisan quality which would have elevated the whole experience. The shrimp tacos were tasty with a kicky chipotle sauce, plus rice and well-seasoned beans on the side. All-in-all a delight.

After a late afternoon dip in the pool, we relaxed on the balcony and prepared for dinner at Giuseppe's in Pismo that evening. To ensure that we didn't suffer the same fate as Sunday night, we planned for a 6:30 meal. We have visited Giuseppe's many times during our visits to the central coast. The restaurant was started many years ago by a Cal Poly student and expanded over the years to include a deli and pizza takeout spot across the street from the original and a new location in San Luis Obispo. We have always enjoyed our meals there and they get an A for consistency. And, the drinks are big and always served properly.

Every meal starts with the house-baked bread served with a slurry of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic and parmesan for dipping. Go slow or you will be too full for the large portions to follow. On the appetizer front, we love the antipasto platter which can be a meal in itself. The large plate features salami, prosciutto, provolone, mozzarella, tomatoes, giardiniera, and eggplant. I also enjoy the italian salad which is a simple mix of butter lettuce, red lettuce and gorgonzola dressed with a light vinaigrette.

We always enjoy the pizzas which are cooked in a real wood-burning oven. The crust is the desired mix of crunchy and chewy and the toppings are of high quality. We like the sausage most of all. I also like the tortelloni Giuseppe which has a tomato cream sauce spiked with prosciutto and peas. It's a big carb load, but delicious.

This trip I decided on the eggplant parmesan because it is a favorite of mine and one of the few dishes I'm afraid to tackle at home. Often in California restaurants there is a need to reduce the calorie load in Italian-American dishes, but some things should not be tampered with. Thankfully, Giuseppe's does bread and fry the eggplant, although I must say it did seem lighter than what I'm used to on the east coast, which enabled me to clean the plate. I was recently inspired by an episode of Takedown with Bobby Flay to replicate the eggplant parmesan created by a deli from Arthur Avenue in the Bronx. I really wanted to step into the TV and take a bite. Stay tuned for the results. The only weak link is the espresso. It's just a little weak and watery. Somehow we always forget this until after we've ordered dessert. No problems there. Georges and Giselle usually share the tiramisu. I tried the mocha chip semifreddo which was rich and creamy.

I think that any time you're in the Pismo Beach area, Giuseppe's is worth a stop for lunch, dinner or picnic provisions.

Dawnville on the Road: Avila Beach

2009-03-16T15:37:00.000-07:00

In search of a respite from the rigors of silicon valley life, we decided to take a brief weekday road trip to Avila Beach. We've often escaped to Shell Beach, and the Dolphin Bay resort, in the past. On our last trip, we took a detour to the Avila Valley Barn so that Giselle could take in the petting zoo and I could sample the baked goods. We ventured into the town and were struck by how perfect it seemed for a family weekend. There was a sunny yellow hotel on the corner with a pirate-themed park on one side and the ocean directly in front. In fact the whole town seemed like a postcard of a Disney version of a small California seaside town. I noted the hotel's name, Avila Lighthouse Suites and filed it for later.

Travelers may be the only people benefitting from the current economic decline. With gas prices remaining well below $3 per gallon, and even luxury hotels competing for your dollars, it's a great time for a short getaway. After checking the forecast for a few of our favorites, it seemed that the San Luis Obispo area was going to be the warmest, sunniest locale for our trip. I searched the usual suspects, Expedia and Orbitz, before checking out the hotel's own website. I found a couple of packages that had more than we really needed as well as some AAA rates. I entered our dates in the reservations system and was presented with several choices including parkview, partial ocean view and full ocean view rates, with either one king or two queen beds ranging from $139 to $169. Then, I noticed a small link that said "Promotional Rates." Of course I clicked it and was rewarded with a super special of 20% off a two-night stay. That brought the price of the lowest priced room to a very reasonable $103 per night. We decided to go for the full ocean view for $119.

Avila Beach is an easy three-hour drive down Highway 101 from the bay area. Along the way, there are plenty of pit stops including outlets in Gilroy (Le Creuset cookware) and wine tasting in Paso Robles. Just past San Luis Obispo, you'll see the turnoff for Avila Beach Drive and be instantly transported to a winding country road. Soon, you'll pass the aforementioned Avila Valley Barn. It's a working farm and a fun stop for the whole family. There's the petting zoo, a candy shop, dairy bar with homemade ice cream and of course, the homemade scones, pies and breads.

Avila Beach Drive dead ends into Front Street, the oceanfront main drag in the town of 1,000 residents. The Avila Lighthouse Suites occupies a beautiful block with it's two-story, vaguely New England buildings in yellow and blue. Every suite features a patio or balcony with two comfy chairs and a table. The complex encircles a wind-shielded pool and spa, a mini putting green, life-size chess set and ping-pong tables. Giselle could not believe her good fortune, a pool and the ocean!

The Master Suites are 550 sf of well laid-out space which is scrupulously clean. You enter a small living room with a desk, armoir with the first of two 32" Philips TVs, microwave and a small refrigerator. On the way to the bedroom, you pass the spacious bathroom with soaker tub/shower combo and double sinks. There's a large closet and handy hooks in the hallway for stowing all your beach gear. The bedroom is spacious too, even with two queen beds. There's also a table and two chairs that would work for snacks or as extra desk space. Most of all though, is the view to the gentle waters of Avila's namesake beach. We can see the Avila Pier which reaches out right in front of the hotel as well as San Luis Pier which has fish right off the boat and a casual fish take-out, Pete's Pierside that comes highly recommended.

Avila Lighthouse Suites also includes a souped-up continental breakfast in the daily rate. If you keep your expectations reasonable, you can find something you like from the selection of packaged oatmeal, boiled eggs, cold cereal, bagels, yogurt, and the kid-pleasing make-it-yourself waffles with strawberries and whipped cream. Just down the street is Joe Mamma, a local-owned, fair trade coffee shop if you're in need of an espresso fix.

We had lunch the first day at The Custom House which overlooks Front Street and the beach. The restaurant is spacious and has a big comfortable bar. We enjoyed our lunch or mahi-mahi fish and chips and shrimp quesadillas. The bloody mary was spicy and delicious. However, I must admit that I was seized by a bit of stomach distress within a half-hour of our meal. In fairness to the Custom House, Georges and Giselle were fine.

That first night, we were lulled by the calming ocean sounds and did not get up in time to get dinner. It was a Sunday night, but be forewarned that Avila Beach is a bit of a sleepy destination so late-night dining options are few. Luckily, I had packed proscuitto, olives and cambozola with our wine, so we had an impromptu in-room picnic to go with our treasures from the hotel vending machine. Do not underestimate the pairing of chardonnay with Doritos and strawberry pop-tarts. :)

After a day of driving and fun in the sun, we turned in early. Eager for a full day on the beach on Monday.

Dawnville Rant: Chicken Salad Gone Wrong

2009-03-11T15:27:00.000-07:00

From time to time, I will use this blog as a place to express my dismay with certain issues related to the food industry. Today's rant centers around the adulteration of classic foods for no good reason. Picture me at lunchtime, already starving due to noon meeting. I decided to forego my usual salad bar at De la Cruz Deli (near McAfee headquarters in Santa Clara) in favor of a chicken salad sandwich. They're a favorite of mine, but due to calorie counting I usually avoid them. But I deserved a treat, I thought. Well it turned out to be a trick.

First of all, who puts thigh meat in chicken salad? Chicken salad should have white-meat only. I am not opposed to other additions like curry and apples and nuts. I've even had a pineapple and almond version that really surprised me. However, this version was so overwhelmed by thyme, and big chunks of dark meat that I couldn't eat it. I don't like to waste food, especially in these times, but it just wasn't good. I had to throw it away. The moral of the story is don't mess with a classic--unless you can improve it.

That said, if you are in the market for a classic, Beli Deli in Belmont, California has an excellent chicken salad sandwich as well as delicious deviled eggs.

Lunch at Mayfield Bakery Cafe

2009-03-10T19:24:00.000-07:00

Well, I told you I would get back to Mayfield to sample the wares beyond the bakery, which I love. On this sunny Tuesday, we had the opportunity to go for lunch. We had hoped to sit on the patio, but the shade made that a daunting prospect. Once inside, the restaurant is handsome, with counter seating on the left side and on the right a combination of a long, brown leather banquette and tables at the windowside. The space is light and airy with white-painted exposed beams and big windows all around.

We entered, and waited for recognition from a hostess. A girl that I presumed to hold that position was very involved with rearranging the menus. A waiter or busser asked if we needed a table. We replied yes, and then he tried to get some action out of the aforementioned hostess. Still a bit flummoxed, she passed us off to another hostess who was able to seat us. Once settled at our table, which had white linens covered with brown paper, we took a look at the menus. Our server came over quickly and we ordered drinks--an Arnold Palmer for Giselle and a Niner Barbera for us. There was a good selection of salads, sandwiches and entrees including a dorado with green garlic that intrigued me, but I really wasn't in a fish frame of mind.

I settled on the Cobb Salad, which the server explained was 'deconstructed.' I wasn't too concerned. I figured that as long as it had all the essentials I could reconstruct it to my liking. Georges ordered the bavette steak sandwich on sourdough with blue cheese and tapenade on sliced sourdough. Miss G decided on the gruyere cheeseburger off the kids menu.

After ordering we were presented with warm pull-apart rolls and a ramekin of sweet, creamy butter. Like all products of the bakery, these rolls were delicious. Crisp on the outside and airy within. Yum. As we sipped our wine and waited, we were able to sneak peeks at the other plates. The turkey and gruyere sandwich on brioche was popular. It was served with a small green salad. Another repeat order was the rigatoni which featured three large meatballs and a homemade tomato sauce. The pizza, pepperoni with yellow peppers and red onion, looked good. The crust had a proper char and blistering. I didn't to check out the oven, so I'm not sure if it was wood-fired or gas.

After whetting our appetites with table-snooping, we were pleased when our food arrived. My cobb salad featured a roasted chicken thigh, breast and drumstick that was well-seasoned. Completing the plate were bite-sized pieces of thick-sliced bacon, sliced avocado and lightly dressed butter lettuce sprinkled with blue cheese. I prefer a creamy blue cheese dressing on my cobb salad but that's a personal quirk. Mayfield's version was light and satisfying.

George enjoyed the flavors of his steak sandwich, although he felt it was unevenly cooked--nearly rare in some sections and the requested medium rare in others. Overall though, the dish had good flavors. Giselle's burger was a little dry, but tasty. I am not sure if that's because it was cooked through because it was a child's dish or someone was a little lax at the grill. The accompanying pommes frite were crisp and salty.

We could not resist the apple crostata with vanilla bean ice cream and we were not disappointed. I was happy that Giselle was not interested because it left more for me. The crust was flaky and tender. While not a baker by an estimation, I am extremely (irrationally?) critical of pie crust. Done right, I often enjoy the crust more than the filling. So I was excited by Mayfield's efforts. I'm going to again give credit to magic elves in the bakery. They are serious about their craft. And, the apples were cooked perfectly, yielding to the fork, but not mushy. And the ice cream was creamy and luscious with an assertive (in a good way) vanilla bean flavor. A perfect ending to our lunch.

My overall experience Mayfield is positive, with a gold star to the pastry chef. I think the restaurant is still finding its footing and given the attention to detail, I believe they will succeed. Sometimes it takes a while to figure out your neighborhood, and Town & Country is an odd mixture of Stanford students and staff, techies, moms and tots, and ladies who lunch. That's a wide swath to cover. I expect to see adjustments in the coming months as they fine tune the concept. That said, Mayfield is a welcome addition to Palo Alto and we'll be back.

La Tiendita: Little Store with Big Flavor

2009-03-04T10:17:00.000-08:00

Tucked away on a side street in the shadows of the Four Seasons Silicon Valley, lies La Tiendita, a combination mini-market/butcher shop and the home of Sancho's Taqueria. If you want authentic Mexican flavors with top-quality, fresh ingredients, stop by for lunch the next time you're exiting the 101 freeway at University Avenue on your way to downtown Palo Alto.

La Tiendita's unassuming exterior belies the wonders within. Recently they added some nice chrome tables and chairs for those who can't wait to eat their meal. However, the parking lot and adjacent liquor store do not provide the most scenic dining environment, so my recommendation would be to take your food to go. Inside, the spotless establishment contains a small produce section, neatly arranged shelves of Mexican grocery items, and a pristine meat counter that displays Mexican cuts of meat, seafood selections and fresh Mexican cheeses. The prices reflect the neighborhood the market serves and I would recommend buying your arrachera or other meats here.

For me though, the star of the show is the taqueria. Everything (except the chips) is cooked to order and you can taste the difference. There's a limited but varied menu that covers the taqueria basics including tacos, burritos, quesadillas and nachos. All orders are served with a bag of house-made chips and a container of green and red salsa. They're both spicy. There are also some creative touches that reflect the owner's previous stints at four-star restaurants like the Village Pub in Woodside, Calif.

For example, the grilled vegetable quesadilla, is chock-full of zucchini, onions, peppers and eggplant. The smokiness of the vegetables and the gooey richness of the cheese combine to make a wholly satisfying vegetarian meal. I also love the carne asada torta. Tortas are kind of a Mexican muffaletta, served on a round roll with meat cheese and other fixings. I love the carne asada because the quality of the meat shines through. You can watch the meat being grilled and then chopped on the flat top for your order. The piping hot meat, is the perfect foil for the cool lettuce, housemade guacamole and Mexican crema. Beware, this juicy sandwich will inevitably squish out the side, so get plenty of napkins and watch your clothes.

One of the stars of the menu is the fish taco. At $3.95, the price may seem hefty, but the taco is piled with three or four pieces of freshly fried fish and topped with a creamy, spicy chipotle sauce and chopped lettuce. One is enough for all but the heartiest appetites. Try one and you will be addicted. As I mentioned, all the food is prepared to order, so while you wait, browse the grocery aisles. You might find a tasty treat to top off your meal. The refrigerated case near the counter has homemade rice pudding and there is also a selection of candy that they seem to carve off by the chunk.

Bottom line: If you're in the area, take a detour to La Tiendita. It's delicious and easy on the wallet.

Note: I've heard that they are opening a new location in downtown Palo Alto. I'll update you when I know more.

The Details:

La Tiendita

510 O'Connor Street

East Palo Alto, CA 94303

650-853-0724

Welcome to Mayfield

2009-02-17T13:37:00.000-08:00

Back in the day, south Palo Alto was a independent town called Mayfield. Apparently, Mayfield was kind of a rowdy place, and refused Leland Stanford's offer to place his university there. Thus Stanford was founded in Palo Alto. You know the rest. In the 1920's, the two towns merged but the Mayfield name pops up from time to time. Well now, Palo Altans of all stripes can enjoy the Mayfield Bakery and Cafe, another new arrival to the revitalized Town & Country Shopping Center. So far we've visited the bakery twice and been happy each time.

Our first foray was for a weekday pastry run. The bakery is sparkling with lots of white tile. There are two small tables if you want to stay, but it's definitely more of a carry-out location. The display case holds individual desserts and sandwiches. Behind the counter are baskets holding a variety of fresh-baked breads including baguettes and a killer ciabatta, not too crunch on the outside and light and airy inside. We selected a cream cheese danish, cinnamon sugar danish and a huckleberry muffin. The pastries were delicious. The dough was flaky, and the filling fresh. I am not usually a muffin eater. Typically they are a calorie and vegetable oil laden stomach bomb. But, I was intrigued by the huckleberry and didn't want to go off the deep end with the pecan sticky buns (but boy did they look good). It was light, fluffy and not too sweet or too large. Nice way to start the morning. As usual, Georges tried the espresso and pronounced it surprisingly good. We decided to pick up a few desserts for later.

The desserts were a mixed bag. I loved my lemon tart with crystallized ginger. It was smooth and tart, although I think the ginger could have been more pronounced. Giselle had the Smore, which was a re-imagining of the childhood treat. A homemade marshmallow topped a very rich chocolate ganache and graham cracker crust. It was beautiful and delicious, but only a real chocoholic could finish it. Georges had tiramisu which was also a twist on a classic. I think your enjoyment of this one would depend on your willingness to let go of the traditional preparation of this dish. All the flavors were there, the creamy mascarpone, the coffee and chocolate, but it resembled more of a tiered mousse than the layered ladyfinger and custard dish we all love. Pastry chef Nancy Pitta has an impressive resume (Hawthorne Lane and Boulevard in SF) and her talent is evident. I look forward to more treats from Mayfield's ovens. I must add that all this deliciousness comes at a price. My wallet was about $40 lighter after this little adventure.

Today, we decided to take-out a rainy day lunch. We sampled three sandwiches: spit-roasted pork loin on the aforementioned ciabatta. It had grilled red onions, cheese and a red pepper mayonnaise. The pork was tender and well-seasoned and the combo worked. Also good was the roast beef with the same onions, and asiago on a baguette. Not as successful was a pulled chicken sandwich with bacon, brie and arugula on the same baguette. The bacon had an unappealing pale look and fatty texture which gave the sandwich a greasy mouth feel. Combined with the buttery brie, it was not a pleasant experience.

Next up, we'll review the Mayfield Cafe for lunch or dinner.

Great Expectations

2009-02-16T13:16:00.001-08:00

After meeting famed Google chef Charlie Ayers when we went to scope out his new restaurant, Calafia, last week, we were excited to try this spot in Town & Country Shopping Center here in Palo Alto. So, on a rainy Sunday, we decided to have brunch. It seems to me that brunch is much more popular on the east coast than the west. I have always enjoyed this combo meal. It makes it easy to dine with a group on a lazy weekend day and satisfy the cravings of all.

First of all, I love the design of the restaurant. It's inviting, with lamps made out of recycled milk bottles and lots of warm wood. There are two dining counters, one at the front window and the other facing the open kitchen. The kitchen is streamlined and includes a gigantic panini grill and wood-burning pizza oven. The chef himself was cooking on our visit which I took as a good sign.

We ordered coffee while perusing the menu. Our server explained that Calafia creates its own blend from three different types of beans. I'm not much of a coffee drinker, but I tried a cappuccino and it was tasty. Lots of foam like I like it. Georges had an espresso (surprise!) which he deemed good, but not as good as the Mayfield Bakery next door. There's also a full wine list and an assortment of Shoju cocktails, but not a full bar.

The menu, as expected, is split between breakfast fare and lunch offerings. We ordered Tobias' Famous Coffee Cake, Lamb Sausage and Eggs and the Smoked Salmon with Red Pepper Hollandaise and Crispy Potato Cake. While we sipped coffee and the house-filtered water, we watched other diners and tried to see their plates. The atmosphere was lively and plates seemed to be going back to the kitchen empty. Another good sign.

Here's where expectation meets reality. The coffeecake was pretty good, if a little dry, but it had fresh apples which were a nice surprise. Then came the entrees. First, Georges' eggs arrived fried, not scrambled as requested. The plate was quickly changed out, but the eggs were overcooked. The lamb sausage were delicious. The smoked salmon dish looked beautiful, except for the blackened potato cake underneath. The eggs were perfectly poached and the salmon was silky. However, each bite was ruined by the burned potatoes. After trying to suffer through, I had to tell the waiter (Chad) when he came over to check on us. He was apologetic and fetched me a much better cooked hash brown from the kitchen. I transferred the remaining benedict to the new potatoes and got an idea of how the dish should taste. The hollandaise was well prepared, but not as flavorful as one would expect. Unfortunately, I think my palate had suffered too long with the burned potato and I could not overcome that taste.

My first impression of Calafia is mixed. The atmosphere and service were good, but the food, which I really wanted to love, was not up to par. We saw many other plates going out with the burned hash browns. That is not acceptable at a restaurant at this level. One of the keys to the locavore/organic movement is to simplify the cooking method to let the flavor of the food shine through. Mistakes like this kill the flavor of all the elements of a dish. That said, I will give the restaurant another chance, for lunch or dinner. In a few weeks, they will also open their Market a Gogo, a Whole Foods style marketplace of prepared foods and an organic soup and salad bar and I'll report on that in a separate review.

Dawnville on the Road: Inauguration Edition (part two)

2009-01-25T13:28:00.000-08:00

I've heard from many sources that Washington DC has become a real foodie town in the past few years. The inauguration turned out not to be the time to discover any of these delights. The hordes of visitors made it nearly impossible to visit any restaurants near the National Mall.

After a long day spent soaking up the electric atmosphere on the Mall, our group was starving. Poor Giselle was surviving on a bag of popcorn and Georges and I even less. With cold limbs and aching feet, we headed over to Union Station which promised a wide variety of dining options. Options abounded, but the crowds overwhelmed them all. So, we hopped onto the Metro and went to Historic U street, once the heart of Black Washington, to find respite from the frigid temperatures. Obama fever was in full flush here as well. How exciting to stroll streets swelling with proud citizens awaiting the big event of 1-20-09. Turned away at our first few stops, we finally found refuge at Cork, a wine bar located in the Logan Circle neighborhood. What appears to be a cozy little one-room restaurant/bar upon entrance is actually a warren of dining spaces on various levels. We were escorted to a table on a little balcony in the middle of the restaurant. It was warm and snug, the soft lighting, rustic wood tables and extensive wine menu allowing us to exhale at last.

We settled in with a glass of Tissot Cremant de Jura, a pinot-based sparkling wine that was dry and crisp ($11) and the Bartolomiol prosecco ($8), which was a new brand for us, and very enjoyable. After our wine orders were placed, were were able to peruse the menu.

The small plates menu enabled us to sample a range of items. We started with the cheese (3 for $10)and charcuterie (3 for $15) plates as well as an order of the roasted brussels sprouts with pancetta and brown butter ($8). Funnily enough, two of the three cheeses offered were California favorites, Humboldt Fog and Cowgirl Creamery. The third was a nutty pecorino. All three were well complemented by the quince jam and the mixed nuts that completed the presentation. The charcuterie plate featured a mound of thinly sliced prosciutto, salami and chorizo and a ramekin of mustard. The fresh French bread was plentiful and we made short work of devouring all that was set before us. Funny what missing lunch and 6 hour walk will do for the appetite. We decided to try one more dish and selected the grilled Angus flat iron steak with broccoli rabe, braised radicchio and horseradish sauce. The steak, cooked at the requested medium rare, was juicy and flavorful. The broccoli rabe absorbed the tasty juices and we were all happy with the choice.

Cork is definitely a place I would return to if in DC again, particularly during a less busy time than inauguration week.

Dawnville on the Road: Inauguration Edition (part one)

2009-01-25T13:07:00.000-08:00

The citizens of Dawnville traveled to Washington DC (via Philadelphia) for Barack Obama's inauguration. More on that magical day later. After arriving at our hotel (a perfectly pleasant airport Hilton) at 1 am the previous evening, we decided to sleep in on Sunday. By the time we got ourselves up, dressed and retrieved the rental car, we'd missed breakfast and were well into the lunch hour. Starved, we decided to head into Center City for an all-day breakfast at the Down Home Diner in the Reading Terminal Market. The Market, in operation since the 1800's, is filled with independently operated stalls selling everything from seafood to flowers to Indian to baked goods to the ever-popular cheesesteak. It's like the San Francisco Ferry Building Market for people without stock options. One corner of the market is given over to the local Amish, but unfortunately and not unexpectedly their stalls were closed on Sunday. And, in another dose of disappointment, the diner workers decided to close up early on this particular Sunday. No breakfast for us. However, we couldn't be discouraged for long. After a few spins around the floor, we decided to try Carmen's version of the classic chessesteak. Taking the counterman's advice, we got a straightforward version with steak, cheese and some sweet peppers. The roll was fresh, the cheese melty and steak hot. It didn't knock me out, but it was tasty. Next visit we will try one of the much heralded versions at Chink's. We also tried an Italian hoagie which was also good, especially with the homemade hot peppers that added a feisty kick at the end of each bite.

Giselle was not in the mood for a sandwich so she sampled the delights at Delilah's, a family-run shop that was recognized by Oprah as having the best Mac and Cheese in America. Now that's a dish we had to try. We ordered the two piece chicken dinner (dark meat) with the aforementioned mac and cheese and collard greens. The chicken was ok, a bit underseasoned for my taste and also not cooked to order. I like my fried chicken hot out of the fryer. The greens on the other hand were well-seasoned and tasty. And the mac and cheese, it was very good, but not the best I've ever had. I think it also suffered from sitting on the steam table, resulting in lukewarm temperature and too-soft noodles.

I would definitely go back to the Reading Terminal Market to explore some of the other vendors, especially the local Amish favorites. If you're in town, I'd recommend you do the same.

Bistro Elan: What a Neighborhood Restaurant Should Be

2009-01-10T07:15:00.001-08:00

As the grateful recipients of a one-night pass courtesy of my visiting mother, my husband and I decided to go out for a nice dinner. While at age four our daughter is quite a discriminating diner and well-behaved in restaurants, there are some experiences that are better without her. After a lengthy volley of potential choices--San Francisco, Marin, something new, we settled on an old favorite, Bistro Elan. We had been to the restaurant only once since Giselle's birth, when she was about 11 months old. She enjoyed it, but it's really not a place set up to welcome kids. So, it was with great anticipation that we set out on the Tuesday before Christmas for an adult meal.

Bistro Elan is on California Avenue, the sometimes overlooked other main street Palo Alto. Truth be told, California Ave. has its own charms that compete with University Avenue including a much better (year-round) farmers market, a great women's boutique (Leaf and Petal) and Izzy's New York Bagels (for a salt bagel with whitefish salad and tomato). Bistro Elan looks warm and inviting from the street with its low lighting, small bar and bustling, tiny, open kitchen. Since our last visit, the owners have divided the space with heavy, chocolate-colored velvet drapes, offering needed privacy between some of the tables and making it even cozier. We were seated in the front of the restaurant with aforementioned drape on one side an a two-top on the other. We had a pleasant view of the holiday lights on California.

Within moments, we were greeted by our server and placed our order for a half-bottle of Billecart Salmon Rose, our favorite champagne. It was the holidays after all and worth a splurge. Shortly after our drinks arrived, we received an amuse bouche, a few bites of delicious salami and olives that was perfect with the yeasty bubbles of the champagne.

So, as you can see, it's all going pretty smashingly to this point. I think what a neighborhood restaurant offers vs. big venues is a level of service and attention to detail that is often lacking at their larger cousins. Everything we had that evening was a delight. Georges started with smoked salmon on a potato waffle. This dish is an update of a Bistro Elan favorite, the smoked salmon napoleon, that graced the menu for years. While skeptical, we both agreed that the waffle's airy texture was a wonderful complement to the silky salmon. I had oysters on the half shell which can be a bit of Russian Roulette these days, but I love them. These did not disappoint. They were fresh, well-chilled and briny, everything you want. The straightforward mignonette was the right accompaniment.

After this intro, we had high expectations for our main courses. I was torn between day-boat scallops, which the chef does very well, and petrale sole. I opted for the sole and boy was I glad. There were two big pieces, simply breaded and pan-fried in a traditional lemon-caper sauce. The fish rested on a bed of roasted broccolini and melted in your mouth. I could not eat the entire portion, although I gave it my all. So, I shared a few bites with Georges, who agreed that the fish was perfectly cooked. For him, the choice was easy: a flat-iron steak with BE's addictive pommes frite, served in a wooden bowl.

Though I couldn't finish my entree, I could not resist the temptations of the pastry chef. We briefly thought of sharing, but generally we go different directions on a dessert tray. And thus, Georges ended up with a seven-layer vanilla and white chocolate sponge cake while I turned my attention to the lemon tart. The cake was good. Very light and airy, but the tart presentation was fabulous. The tart was served with pistachio crusted lemon semifreddo that was the height of yumminess.

We both talked all the way home about how much we enjoyed the meal. The restaurant fires on all cylinders delivering great food, warm atmosphere and attentive service. Bistro Elan is definitely back in our dining rotation.

The Rise of Pizza Friday

2008-12-13T14:17:00.000-08:00

Let's start with my current obsession: pizza. It is actually a lifelong pursuit nurtured by spending my formative years in Connecticut. With Pepe's and Sally's only 20 minutes away, and great local joints including Jerry's, Apizza Center and the Brick Oven, I have eaten more than my fair share of pies. It is the thing that I miss most of all, more than 15 years after decamping to the west coast. Thankfully there has been a surge of interest in what I call "real pizza" in the last few years. Delfina in SF. Diavola in Geyserville. Pizza Antica in San Jose and Tiburon. They all make delicious pizza that has no relationship to the doughy mess that is served at places like RoundTable. Still, the pizza of my youth has eluded me. And so, I have started Pizza Friday to try and capture the taste of pizzas past. It started slow with store-bought dough and jarred sauce. I have progressed to making my own dough (using Chris Bianco's recipe and Italian 00 flour). Talk about a challenge. I cannot claim victory with the dough, but the toppings are great. My current favorite is italian sausage, red peppers, cremini mushrooms, and thinly sliced red onions. Proscuitto and portobella is another crowd pleaser. The secret is the fontina Val d'Aosta.